Ring sizing is a common task for jewelers. Rings change hands and need to fit new fingers, or the finger change size as we grow older. When you just need to find out the right size of a new ring, you can use a chart, bring in an old ring you have for that finger, or just ask us. This is a simple straight-forward process. When modifying the size of your ring, you will want to go to a qualified jeweler. The techniques used require specific skills acquired with time.
When you size a ring, you either size it up or down. When you size the ring up you need to cut the shank (back) of the ring and then place the ring on a ring mandrel, a ring sizing tool, and move it to the appropriate size. This opens up the ring and creates a gap in the shank. A piece of gold is then cut to fit the opening. I use a dovetail joint to create a bond rather than a butt joint. Even though it takes more time, a dovetail joint increases the strength of the bond and ensures a higher quality product.
Once the additional piece of gold is in place, I solder the two seams with gold solder and a torch. After the ring has cooled, it is filed and sanded to the desired shape, then polished and cleaned. Only then is it ready for delivery.
To size a ring down, the process is similar. You remove a piece of gold and bring the shank together with a special pair of pliers. The finishing is done in the same way as described above.
Care needs to be taken when sizing rings. There are several possible issues that can come up during the process. You need to be careful that stones do not come loose, or burned up in the process (the torch reaches 1500 degrees), cracking or breaking stones. Also, you can run into problems if the ring is old and been sized many times in the past. You can loose the previous sizing job by the piece of gold pooping out when the torch is applied. Sometimes a ring has been sized to many times making the shank thin. A half shank would be recommended which consists of replacing the whole bottom half of the ring.
Even for a seemingly simple procedure as a ring sizing it is important to to to a skilled master jeweler to do the job.